Tuesday, June 9, 2026

"In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks." - John Muir

 Regardless of the weather forecast, we prepared for our ascent up Cat Bells. What a hard hike. I'm amazed that the weather does not seem to be a deterrent to any hikers around here. There is a constant stream of walkers and even though it was wet, I was standing aside as they passed me up the fell. We made it to the spot where you have to scramble up a rock face just to get to the first hump. So, we headed back down and had our sandwich lunch with the sheep. I'm happy I made the effort on our last day in Keswick and just when we got back the heavens opened up.

The beginning was pretty tame, pretty much flat walking through forest, but that quickly changed.
Up and up, a great cardio workout but the scenery was amazing.
Heading toward heaven.
No words.
The more experienced or crazy hikers heading up the first scramble. The peak of Cat Bells is actually the second hump on the left.
Mountain climbers we are not, but willing to give it a shot!
Llamas and alpacas we passed on our way.
We had our supper at the 'Dog and Gun'. Andrew had their famous goulash and a half pint of 'Old Peculiar'. Dogs are welcome as part of the clientele at the local pub. They were very well behaved (and cute).

Tomorrow we travel via bus and train back to Gatwick airport in preparation for our return to Canada on Thursday. Hoping to post some reflections tomorrow evening of our holiday.

Monday, June 8, 2026

"There is no wealth but life." (from 'Unto This Last' 1860) - John Ruskin


Our day began much more relaxed - no suitcases to pack up and a leisurely breakfast and a sunny day to boot. Then off for yet another walk - these 2 photos show the area well - top one facing Derwent Water, turn around and more beautiful landscape.


We set off for two lovely short walks along the lake - Friars Crag Circular (where we found a monument to John Ruskin, a contemporary of Wordsworth) and then back through Cockshot Wood. It was a beautiful day, the most sun we've seen since we began our hike. 
Andrew suggested we take a bus and travel a round trip which ventured over Honister Pass then along the sublime Buttermere.  The Honister Slate mine, offering underground tours (not my cup of tea!) is located here. The popular 309 km Coast to Coast hiking trail passes through here. The bus fare was only 3 quid each, so away we went after purchasing a meal deal at the local grocer. Well, for almost 2 hours we bounced along a one lane road, very often meeting up with other vehicles, which either had to back up to let us go through or move over as far as possible so we didn't take the side mirrors off. The twists and turns were enough to convince us that we should eat our lunch after we returned. We met a logging truck at one point and I wasn't sure how that was going to work out - there was about 3 inches between him and us. However, the views were incredible and the fells were straight up with lots of rock scree, meeting the sky at the top. We managed to get back safely, but I must say my legs were a bit unsteady getting off the bus. I just hope they pay that bus driver well - every day at work must be exciting for him.
This afternoon we took it easy and then had a light supper. Andrew is talking about climbing Catbells tomorrow but he may be doing it solo - I have a mental block about donning my boots again. We'll see.

Andrew communing with a Field Maple tree; we have seen many majestic specimens, often standing alone in a field of sheep.
Monument to John Ruskins - are any of my grandchildren learning Roman numerals? Who can tell me his year of birth and death?
The steepness of the fells was hard to capture from the window of the bus.
Another post box - this one was a bit fancier - an Edward VII installed 1901-10.
The ferry that runs from this side of the lake to deposit hikers that want to climb the fells on the other side.
Where earth meets sky.

Closing another day full of thankfulness that we get to do this together.

Sunday, June 7, 2026

"After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb." - Nelson Mandela

 Today was rather relaxing as we boarded a bus bound for Keswick - as you can tell from the first pic, it was a chance to catch up on a few zzzzzz's. 

Bowness-on-Windermere was a bit of a letdown. Virginia Cottage was located very central to the village core and Saturday night proved to be a raucous and late evening/early morning for the young at heart. Needless to say, Andrew and I did not have a restful night after 8 days of hiking. However,  you pivot and carry on - we caught bus number 599 to Windermere, then transferred to the 555 to take us to Keswick. It was a beautiful drive through the lake district with the hills towering on both sides. We arrived early and unable to check in until 3, we meandered through this lovely spot on a lake named Derwent Water. There are so many shops, pubs, eateries and as we headed down to the lake there is an amazing green space with a mini putt in the middle. The weather has been very windy and chilly and the boat launches were cancelled today. Maybe tomorrow we will take a ferry to the base of Cat Bells (a 1,480 foot fell) beside the lake and hike to the top, but I'm not sure the ferry will be running with the high winds. I'm also not sure I want to put my hiking boots back on.......

Unable to keep my eyes open to enjoy the view.
Fellpack House - our home for the next 3 nights.
Derwent Water - it was very windy.
A dark afternoon - are we really going to attempt that peak in the distance?
A little church tucked in amongst the shops in the town square.
The local independent cinema opened in 1913, one of the oldest in the UK, but they only show movies one day a week.
And the view from our window - so, so pretty.

Saturday, June 6, 2026

May you always have 'LOVE' to share, cash to spare, tyres with air! and friends who care. Taken from a sandwich board at St. Martins Church in Bowness

We made it - seeing the lake in the distance was very rewarding but we took the time to rest the weary feet before heading down to Bowness. 

Bowness on Windermere - the final stop of the Dales Way. After 8 days on the trail and not too much interaction with people, it was almost a shock to the system to walk into town with the busyness of a very touristy spot. Between the dogs and the people, I almost wanted to get back on the trail. 

View from our stable door at Howestone Farm in Patton Bridge.
Finding our way through the dales but now in Cumbria.
The scenery today was beautiful.
The higher Lakeland fells to the north where we head
tomorrow, but not on foot!

Ummmmm - which way??
Resting for a minute before heading toward Lake Windermere.

Tomorrow we hop on a bus to take us to Keswick (pronounced Kessick) where we'll catch up on sleep and possibly hike the Catbells, one of the most popular 'small mountain' walks in the Lake District.
Thank you for following along with us on the Dales Way. I will likely post over the next few days, just to have a record of this incredible trip.

Friday, June 5, 2026

"Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads." - Henry David Thoreau

 Second to last day of our 8 day hike through the Yorkshire Dales.

Lots of thoughts rambling about in my head today. Thinking about what my sister said about there being a beginning, a middle and end to this type of holiday. The beginning is exciting, discovering a new part of the country, anticipation of what's ahead, not knowing whether we can actually accomplish it. In the middle, we get our walking legs under us, take the breaks we need, give each other space to take in what we came to see. At the end, we remember how far we've come, give each other the encouragement we need to finish the next day. Somehow, the 8 days have slipped away and there is a part of me that doesn't want it to end. 

Today, we left Sedburgh around 9:30, arriving in Patton Bridge around 5:30. Another long day, but the weather was on our side and we enjoyed a 20 km ramble with another 2 tacked on to the end as we navigated the hill country of Cumbria, trying to locate our B&B. We are now at Howestone Barn, where we were served a delicious homemade meal (chicken vegetable soup, fillet of salmon with roasted vegetables and a delicious chocolate cake served with raspberries and cream). A great way to end the day.

Photo time-----

Leaving Sedburgh and looking into a convex mirror that seem to be quite common with the narrow streets.
This was built for the daughter of Charles Edward Taylor who contracted tuberculosis and the family wanted her close by while in isolation. They named it Pepper Pot.
Snack break along the way.
The Friends (Quaker) Meeting House was built in 1675 at a time when non-conformist meetings were illegal. The founder of Quakerism, George Fox, preached to about 1000 folks near here on Firbank Fell in June of 1652, fresh from having a spiritual vision on Pendle Hill, and the movement was born.
A simple interior.
Wooden church door leading into the Quaker Church.
Walking toward and under the Victorian-built Lune viaduct.
'Escape to the Country"?
Not sure what 'dead slow' means? 
Following the Dales Way through hawthorn hedgerows.
Blue sky! Haven't seen that for a couple of days.
All the sweet baby animals this time of year!
The M6 - thankful we didn't have to cross this - there was an overpass.

Thursday, June 4, 2026

"The nicest thing about the rain is that it always stops. Eventually." - A.A. Milne

Leaving Lea Yeat at a delayed 10 am.
Our bathroom at the Sportsmen's Inn, very small, very antiquated with not a whole lot of water pressure.

Now on to Day 6 of our 8 day hike. We were a little sluggish getting away this morning and I think it had a lot to do with the weather. However, we knew Sedburgh was waiting for us and so we set off to cover 14.5 km on this very wet day. We kept to the official trail for most of the way but the river was very angry and full today from the amount of rain we had. The pictures tell the tale today, but we are here tucked in the 'book town' of Sedburgh, although we were too late to visit any book shops.

What a start to the day!

We were constantly coming across very full streams coming from the hills and we eventually hit one that was unpassable and ended up backtracking about a half km back to the roadway.
What a slog!!
Heading to Dent for our first stop.
The very higgledy piggledy village of Dent, cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings and fairly deserted but we found this lovely spot to shed our wet things for a bit and shared a lovely lunch. Just the break we needed before continuing on.
Departing Dent.
Inside a lovely church in Dent - the stained glass was beautiful. The first vicar in this church was in 1290.
The views are still spectacular regardless of the weather.
We ambled up a track beside a stone wall high enough to prevent the curious eyes of wayfarers. The wall enclosed Gate Manor. Andrew appreciated the ornate hinges on the old door.
Following the trail into Sedburgh.
Breathing deep and absorbing what's in front of me.
Sedburgh School is a well known independent (private) day and boarding school (since 1525) where the majority of students are boarders. There are about 500 students aged 4-18 years.
Sorry, not sorry. They are so sweet.