"Words of encouragement have their own power, and when they are said by the right people, they can change everything." - Bob Goff

 We knew we were in for a hard day according to the weather forecast. For 17.5 km from Oughtershaw to Lea Yeat it rained, it blew and it was rather chilly. We stayed in Wensleydale House in Hawes last evening and then had a taxi hire take us back to Oughtershaw to reconnect where we left off yesterday afternoon. We didn't stop for respite and arrived 6 hours later at the Sportsmen's Inn an hour before check in. Thankfully, they were sympathetic, seeing 2 foreign drowned rats desperate to get their wet boots off and find warmth. So we are tucked away at a 300+ year old inn, looking forward to a good sleep.

This morning, Andrew tried the beans, sausage, hatted egg and soldiers - sticks of toast.

Another very old post box this time with the letter VR which is the royal cypher for Queen Victoria (Victoria Regina) installed between 1853 and 1901.

Beginning day 5 of our hike - we started out smiling.

About midway and getting wetter - took a lot of encouragment to turn that frown upside down. This is the junction with the Pennine Way and the paths coincided for a ways. This section was on the Cam High Road, an old Roman road that was used to march soldiers and move supplies across England 18 centuries ago.

Another climb and we were so wet - really need waterproof boots in this weather.

Bear with me as I give you another picture of cuteness.

We crossed over the Pennine Way, meeting a few other hearty walkers, but didn't chat long, we were all anxious to be on our way. This picture is the Ribbendale Viaduct (you may have to enlarge the pic to see the viaduct through the heavy mist) - carrying the Settle-Carlisle railway. It is the longest and third tallest structure on this rail line. The viaduct was necessitated by the challenging terrain of the route. 

Getting closer to the end of our day.

Belted Galloway cattle, a traditional Scottish breed of beef cattle.

Down to the pub and a warm fire - grand way to end the day.

Thoughts from today - were we wet? - yes, were we tired? - yes, were we chilled? - yes. But the satisfaction of walking another day of our hike outweighed all of that. So thankful to be healthy enough to share this experience with someone who takes my dream and makes it a reality. Andrew took the lead today, guiding me through the rough patches, testing the crossing of the becks, always scouting the best way and waiting for me on the other side. He really came through today - encouraging me with every soggy step. 

"Morning is the best part of the day for walking. The air is freshest then, the earth sweetest." - Alfred Wainwright

 Today forecasted rain and cloud cover for our trek from Buckden to Oughtershaw (9.5 km), but we had very little rain. I began the day by slipping down the last few steps of our B&B and bruising some toes. However, I snugged up my boots and away we went. I may have to tape them together tomorrow as they are a bit tender. We set off around 9:30 and Andrew wanted me to lead the day, but first thing, I turned the wrong way to get out of Buckden - I don't have the best built in navigational system.

Our first stop was at St. Michael and All Angels Church in Hubberholme. A simple, beautiful church and just to bring up the TV series "All Creatures Great and Small" once again, this is the church that Helen and James were married in. If you look closely at the pews there is a wee mouse carved on the side of one. Robert Thompson, known as the mouseman, was a master carpenter who left this as his signature on everything he made.

From there, we made our way along the dale, encountering fellow walkers and upon hearing us talk, asked if we were American, to which we promptly replied - "No, Canadian" and they immediately apologized. Kind of funny. We arrived in Oughtershaw early afternoon and from there caught a car hire to transport us to Hawes for overnight. He will pick us up and deliver us back to Oughtershaw in the morning to continue our walk. So, we are tucked away in another cute Yorkshire village filled with all sorts of touristy things.

This little guy is called a roe deer - smaller than our deer at home and couldn't figure out how to get out of a fenced in area. 

Such a pretty walk along the river and the rain is holding off.

These 2 little guys belong to the mama with 46 on her back - so much sweeter without the paint on them, but a good way to keep track of them.

True Dales Way vistas - I never get tired of looking at this.

St. Michael and All Angels Church in Hubberholme.

Incredible doors leading into the church.

This 12th century church is noted for the rare wooden rood loft - look up near the roof. This platform was used for supporting the rood (crucifix) and it could also act as a small gallery for musicians or clergy. Also the candelabras were once the only source of light in this church. 

And we found the church mouse! Explanation above.

Along the riverside were several coppiced alder trees. The trees are cut close to the ground every few years to stimulate many new stems, used for fires, crafts, and to create a good wildlife habitat.

Can't beat the views.

Cuter lambs without the markings - but mama is close.

Yet another well known homestead if you watch "All Creatures Great and Small". Helen's family farm.

There must be an easier way? Thankfully, not nearly as many stiles today!

Thistle

A very old post box - note the initials GR for King George VI. Most others have ER.

The yummiest chocolate milkshake and such a treat after a day of walking.

And the view from our bedroom window tonight.

What did the sheep parent say to the lamb? "It's pasture bedtime." - Reader's Digest

 June 1, 2026

This morning dawned grey and wet and we knew we were in for a long day. An 18 km day with misty drizzle and hazy landscape, trying to avoid all the cow and sheep poo on the trail. We arrived at Romany Cottage in Buckden at 15:58 (check in was not before 16:00) and found the first bathtub! What a treat to soak tired muscles in a warm bath. We opted for a light supper tonight - half a ham and cheese sandwich, an apple, a large cup of tea and a scone. It will likely be early to bed tonight. 

Here are a few pictures from today -

Grassington was a quaint spot to visit and it was fun to see the setting of one of our favourite TV shows.

Day 3 - here we go!!

It was a steady climb all morning but the vistas were worth every step.

The Dales sit on thick limestone rock and instead of tunnelling deep, workers quarried limestone from the surface and burned it in lime kilns to make quicklime used for farming and building.

Stiles are kind of fun to cross, but after the 10th one in a day, I really don't care if I ever have to cross one again.

There are several types of stiles. This one is a gated squeeze style, for obvious reasons.

In spite of the rain, it was very pretty today.

The sheep leading Andrew north toward Buckden.

The smart sheep tucked themselves near a stone wall and under a tree to try and stay dry.

These huge black slugs are in abundance.

Finally arrived in Buckden and looking forward to good rest tonight. The River Wharfe has been our companion for three days but tomorrow we will say goodbye to it.

"The rich and poor meet together: the LORD is the maker of them all." Proverbs 22:2 (KJV)

 May 31, 2026

Today we knew it was a fewer km day, so we took our time departing from Appletreewick. There was a White Rose cyclist race going through early and it was a constant zipping as 100+ cyclists zoomed by the inn. It was forecasting rain, and sure enough, just as we were about to leave, the skies opened, so we donned our rain gear and set out. Thankfully it didn't last long and we continued strolling along the River Wharfe, taking in all the scenery. 

Happy to be hitting the trail again, knowing we didn't have far to go to Grassington.

Full rain gear, but blue skies ahead.

Just some cows relaxing in buttercups by the river.

Primary school in Burnsall founded in 1603 and still functioning. I'm thinking it would be a lovely place to learn!

Another lovely church door.

Little Emily's packhorse bridge (13th century) in Linton.

St. Michaels and All Angels Church - the oldest part dates from the 12th century (Norman period). Over 800 years old, it was very quiet and as you enter the church there is a sign overhead with the title of today's blog.

Note the red and black checked floor -  my dream hallway and/or kitchen floor. And I now want to wallpaper some rooms in our house but I don't think Andrew is on board!

Crossing the river once again on a one lane suspension bridge.

Heading into Grassington - it is so, so pretty here.

A couple of flower pics for the garden enthusiasts.

The English roses are incredible.

View from our window in Grassington. This little village has gained a lot of tourist interest as the setting for the TV series "All Creatures Great and Small". The building across the way is known as Skeldale House where James Herriott has his veterinarian practice and we stayed overnight at the Drovers Arms where the characters in the show go for their nightly pint. 

We will certainly watch "All Creatures Great and Small" with a different lens now.