"One of the secrets of life is to make stepping stones out of stumbling blocks." - Jack Penn

 May 30, 2026

Apologies for missing yesterday but the little one lane town of Appletreewick couldn't keep up with good wifi. Our first day of walking felt a bit intimidating for me - not knowing if this was an impossible challenge or would I be able to push to the end.

The beginning of the Dales Way. Only 128 km to go ---

A warm and sunny day forecast, we departed Ilkley around 9 am, determined to get the first 18 km behind us. The signposts are not clearly marked and several times we asked the locals if we were on the right track and the response was mainly - "just follow the river and you canna go wrong". So, that is what we did. Following the River Wharfe, we took our time and came to Bolton Abbey right around lunch. The grounds were teeming with Saturday picnic goers - lots of families with children and an afternoon enjoying a warm day just being together. We took a break at The Tea Cottage and ordered up a ploughman's lunch to share. After airing our feet for a bit, we continued on, arriving at our next pitstop, Appletreewick, hoping for a bathtub, but alas, it was not to be.

First cow encounter - who has the right of way?

Bolton Priory located in the village called Bolton Abbey is a 12th century Augustinian priory founded around 1154. Attached to the left of this ruin is one of the finest medieval churches in the north of England, and a site of continuous Christian worship for over 850 years.

Perfect day for capturing the height of these arches.

Very impressive front door.

Our ploughman's lunch - it tasted so yummy after a full morning of walking.

There was lots of activity on these stepping stones crossing the river, but we decided it would be safer for 68 year olds to use the bridge.

Most churches we come across are open to the public and this little spot was Farfield Quaker Meeting House, built by the Quakers in 1686. Very sparse furnishings, but a perfect place to get out of the sun and have a bit of sustenance.

Walked through the grounds of St. Peters Church in Addingham and the notable feature is the blue faced clocks in the tower of the church - a fashion started by the old established clockmaking firm of William Potts and Sons. The blue paint for is a specially mixed colour known as 'Potts Blue', it having been discovered that the numerals in gold leaf are more legible on a blue background rather than on black.

Sauntered through Strid Wood and the day provided perfect reflection.

Came across a group of avid birders attempting to spot a tawny owl, and blocking the path.

This stile was mastered 3 times - again wondering whether we were still on the right path.

And the end of our day - on our way into Appletreewick - we were greeted by this sweet, black kneed sheep.

"I never saw a moor, I never saw the sea; Yet know I how the heather looks, And what a wave must be." - Emily Dickinson

 A few observations from todays meanderings - 

1. When your husband says, "Let's take a morning walk up to the moors and get some more steps in before we start our long hike tomorrow." 4 hours, 20,000 steps and 40 floors later - "I think I'm ready now." Needless to say we crashed this afternoon.

2. There is a sense of kindness and politeness when one is out in the public, here. Face to face conversation is very common among those out for dinner or just out for a stroll - phones are certainly used, but face-in-phone is very rare. It's almost an atmosphere reminiscent of 30 years ago. Very encouraging to see, especially in the young generation. I wonder if the Brits have discovered something we have yet to.

3. The roses and gardens - they use their green space well. Immaculate and so very beautiful. Kentville could learn a lesson in town enhancement. Use one of our ball fields - open allotments to those wanting to grow fresh veg-engage the unhoused in a project to care for and discover the joy of growing your own food. Just thoughts rambling around in a tired brain.

A few pics from today ---

Our day started with Andrew having his Japanese breakfast. I'm not the adventurous eater in the family and opted for poached egg, roasted tomatoes, bacon and toast. 

If God had created colours for peace of mind and slowing down, I'm pretty sure this green and blue would top the list.

Heading up and up and up. Ilkley Moor is a site of special scientific interest covering about 6,800 acres rising to 402 metres above sea level, and is part of the Rombald Moor, a vast heather moorland that covers 90 square kilometres. It is known for its wild moorland scenery and expansive views. The 'Cow and Calf' is supposedly a highlight to see up here, but I certainly don't think these large rocks resembled a cow and/or a calf. Can you see it?

The Cow and the Calf? I see an angry face!!

This was a cavern of cliffs. We are pretty sure we saw a British murder mystery show called 'Banks' that had been filmed here. Someone 'jumped' the cliff and ramblers found a body about where I am standing. 

This stone circle is known as the 12 Apostles. It was rather underwhelming, considering the effort it took to reach it.

Looks like a long way back and all very steep downhill before I get to take my boots off.

Notice the difference in the colour of the clouds.

This traditional Yorkshire song was inspired by the Ilkley Moor. 

So tomorrow we say goodbye to this quaint little town called Ilkley and head north. Our first day takes us to a little place called Appletreewick (just hoping for a bathtub to soak in when we get there!)

"I am no bird; and no net ensnares me; I am a free human being, with an independent will." From Jane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte

For your information - if you click on the pictures you will get a larger and clearer image.

 Today we ventured south to Haworth, home of the Brontes. Travelling by bus, steam train (a bucket list item for Andrew) and foot, we climbed a very steep cobblestone road and arrived at the parsonage home of the Bronte family. Patrick Bronte was born in Ireland, became an Anglican clergyman and moved to England. He was well educated and encouraged his children's learning and creativity. He married Maria Branwell and they had six children, but only 4 survived into adulthood. The 2 eldest sisters, Maria and Elizabeth died in childhood. Charlotte, Emily and Anne all penned well known books and Branwell, the only boy, was also very talented but struggled with addiction which affected his family deeply. Maria passed when the children were very young and her sister was called to come and live in the parsonage to help with the upbringing of the children. It was very solemn walking through their home containing many original items belonging to the family. 

Learning the local bus system.

A walk back in time. Pretty sure this station was used in one of the episodes of "All Creatures Great and Small".

The interior of the steam train - the seats have really worn over the years, but you could certainly imagine the beauty of this mode of transportation.

The pace and the motion of the steam train lulled me to sleep.

This was described as a 'mild' climb but I'm pretty sure they made a mistake.

A long, narrow and steep cobblestone street, very close living quarters.

The parsonage/home of the Brontes. The original home was the square section and the rooms were very small - certainly no room for a queen bed!!

The church was directly behind the house and there used to be a gate that the children would go through in that stone wall.

This painting of the sisters was done by Branwell and he originally had himself in it, but you can see where he altered the painting and his image is faded out.

Writing implements used by the children.

This dress was all handsewn by Charlotte - it must have taken many days.

The children's backyard play area - so pretty.

Many original books in the study - I think Andrew would have liked to get his hands on them.

A statue of the three sisters in the back garden.

It was a day trip worth taking and really enjoyed learning some of the history of this family. We will tuck away early tonight so we can climb up to the moors tomorrow and spend our last day in Ilkley roaming at a slower pace in preparation for our serious walking.

"Life begins the day you start a garden." - A Chinese Proverb

 Day 2 in Ilkley - a town nestled on the southern edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. We are very impressed with the amount of green space in town and it's so picturesque with the River Wharfe running through. We managed an impressive 21,000 steps and 17 floors today!! Hoping to be ready to begin our 138 km hike north to Windermere on Saturday.

Andrew's choice for breakfast - a smoked Whitby kipper with a poached egg. I think he might choose differently tomorrow?

One of my favourite things in England are the chimney pots, not sure why, but I think it dates back to when I watched Mary Poppins as a young girl and loved the song and dance of Bert on the rooftops.

We walked along the River Wharfe this morning and upwards into Middleton Woods where the spring bluebells are abundant and very showy. Next photo shows we were about 2 weeks too late. Only dappled sunlight on tired looking bluebells.

Andrew captured the lone tree in the field - makes one wonder why it is all by itself in this large meadow.

The Middleton Woods has existed for hundreds of years and is classed as a semi-natural ancient woodland. This is known as Mount Calvary and a previous owner of the land had these sculptures done in the 1850s by an Italian artist, representing the Stations of the Cross. It was a very quiet, secluded spot in the middle of these woods.

This was at the end of the walk through the Stations of the Cross - very pretty.

First of many 'kissing' gates we will travel through over the next 2 weeks.

Coming back into Ilkley, we visited All Saints Church, built on the site of a Roman fort (AD79). There is a record of a church in Ilkley in the Domesday Book (1086). There have been 14 centuries since the founding of the church on this site. 

I so wanted to yank on this cord to see if a bell would ring - apparently there are 8 bells in the bell tower. 

This was interesting to see these chairs that replaced the old wooden pews - you can see where the pews were at one time.

Waited seven years to breathe in these stunning vistas. 

Known as the White Wells Spa Cottage, this building was erected around 1700 as an open air spa bath. It still functions as a cold plunge pool and you can try it out today when the building is open (which is when the flag is flying!)

This evening we climbed some more hills to take in the Darwin Gardens and Millenium Green. Darwin liked to visit this area and likely spent time at White Wells.

And I stood on the human sundial, which was surprisingly fairly accurate. The inscription on the centre disk reads - Time was, time is, time is yet to be - now take your stand upon eternity.

Finished up our day at a local fish'n chip shop. The sides were mushy peas, gravy and curry sauce. I have to say the the main course was delicious.

And this finishes up our second full day - more to be added on the Yorkshire Moors as we will likely be heading back up there on Friday.